Monday, 5 June 2017

1755 Waistcoat - Margot Hill Pattern

Pattern: 1755 Men's Waistcoat, The Evolution of Fashion, by Margot Hill and Peter
Fabric: 100% silk taffeta, dark brown. Back lining is double layer cotton osnaburg. Front section lining is plain weave cotton and taffeta facings.
Construction: Hand stitched using period methods, including the "Weird running whip-stitch thingy" (this method has a French name, but darned if I can't remember it right now)

With back lacing fully closed
Chest: 40"
Waist: 36"

Note on Photos: I don't have a male display form, so I'm forced to improvise by using a small female dress form and then stuffing it with poly-fill, LOL. Not the best, but it's what I have at the moment. 

Wednesday, 31 May 2017

1760s Casaquin - Brown Silk & Winged Cuffs

Pattern: Started with the "1760 Jacket" Diagram XXX, from Norah Waugh's The Cut of Women's Clothes, with heavy alterations. Cuffs, stomacher, and petticoat are self drafted.
Fabric: 100% Silk taffeta, Dark Chocolate Brown, for the jacket. Brick red linen/cotton blend for the stomacher and petticoat. Jacket lining is tan ramie linen, also called grass linen.

SOLDAvailable on Etsy HERE
Chest: 34" - 35.5"
Waist: 26 - 27.5"
Hip: Free
Hem: 40" at front, increasing to 43" at back (should be worn over a bumroll)
Back Width: 13"
Bicep: 13" max
Shoulders: 16"

1760s Casaquin Jacket with large Winged Cuffs

Saturday, 27 May 2017

Tailor's Guide Riding Habit - Brown Silk Taffeta

Pattern: Tailor's Guide "Riding Habit", with alterations.
Fabric: 100% silk taffeta, dark brown (not blue. Damn camera...). Lining is done in a ramie linen (grass linen) and Tencel blend.
SOLDAvailable on Etsy HERE
Chest - 36.5"
Waist - 31"
Hip: Free
Hem: 40" at front, 43" at back (cut for bumroll)
Back Width: 14"
Bicep: 15" max
Sleeve: 22" from top of armhole seam to cuff

 So continues my ongoing battle against photography ignorance. Ugh! Every time I take pictures out doors, I can't seem to get the colors to show true. The picture below, taken indoors, is a much better representation of the true colors. Antique gold trims with dark chocolate brown silk. The outdoor pictures are skewed blue, for some damn reason, and I could not get them to correct =/

Tuesday, 18 April 2017

1775 Orange Stripe Caraco - Pet-en-l'air Style

Patterns: J.P Ryan "Pet-en-l'air" pattern, altered.
Fabrics: 100% Cotton; cream with orange and dark grey stripes. Cotton osnaburg lining.
Available on Etsy HERE
Chest: 38-41
Waist: 33 - 36
Upper arm: <14.5"

Construction Details:
Hand stitched in all visible areas. I only used machine stitching on inside seams. Also handmade eyelets for the front lining lacing.
The ruching on the stomacher has scalloped cut edges.
Lining has size adjustment options at center front and center back. The front laces closed and the center back has ties.

Friday, 3 March 2017

1880s Black Evening Gown - Asymmetrical

Era: Victorian, Late Bustle, 1883-1890
Patterns: Truly Victorian #261 Skirt, #382 "Add-On", and #460 Bodice (altered)
Fabric: Faux-silk faille, 100% polyester. Sleeves are black chiffon with black velvet flocking.

Chest: 43" max.
Waist: 34"
Back Width: 15" max
Sleeve Length: 15" from shoulder to end of cuff.
Hem: 40" at front, 44" at back.

This dress consists of 4 separate parts: Bodice, Skirt, Over-skirt, and Fichu (scarf). The fabric is a polyester/rayon blend done in imitation of a very small rib silk faille. The bodice is fully interfaced in cotton, lined in black cotton, and has 8 bones on the seams and front darts. The neckline is low and wide, suitable to evening, but the a fichu of matching fabric to the sleeves can fill in the neckline for day time wear.

The over-skirt is originally intended to be an add-on to the skirt, but I gave it a separate waistband so the skirt can be worn alone, if designed, or pieces can be mixed and matched with other garments. I'm not a fan of compound skirts with a lot of things all attached together, because they are difficult to wash, iron, and store properly. 

Friday, 24 February 2017

1887 Paisley Print Day Dress

Patterns: Truly Victorian #261 Skirt, Truly Victorian #367 Cascade OverSkirt, Truly Victorian #460 Bodice (altered).
Fabrics: 100% cotton, printed in a paisley design of red, gold, tan, black, and grey (It's a pretty complex printing). Black broadcloth for overskirt and bodice cuffs.
Available on Etsy HERE
Chest - 45"
Waist - 36"
Hem - 38.8" at front. 43.5" at back (cut for large bustle)
Back Width - 16"
Bicep - 16"
Neck - 17" max.

Friday, 17 February 2017

1872 Summer Dress - Plaid Cotton

Patterns: None. Self drafting for all pieces
Fabric: Lightweight 100% Cotton. Black, goldenrod, and white, all with a cross-weave of white (which has the effect of making the black look speckled and the goldenrod lighter in areas)

Chest: 42-44" (Padding and/or under-breast padding was common at this time)
Waist: 34"
Hip: <50"
Hem: 38" at front. 43" at back.
Available on Etsy HERE
This is an early 1870s day/evening dress suitable to the harsh summer heat. Contrary to the accepted norms of 19th century dress, ladies did wear short sleeves bodices in the summer heat, especially in the deep south and out West. This is backed up by extant pieces as well as some private photography from the era showing ladies in short sleeve dresses that were clearly not evening gowns.

This dress comes with a matching fichu that fills in the bodice and covers the shoulders for day wear, but is then removed to leave the shoulders and chest bare for evening wear.