Monday, 28 September 2015

1880s Four Piece Suit - Autumn Colors

Patterns: Truly Victorian #364 "1886 Autumn Overskirt"
                Truly Victorian #303 "1872 Side Drape Overskirt"
                Self Drafting on jacket and vest.
Fabrics: 100% cotton print. 100% silk, dupioni weave.
Chest...44" max
Hem....41" at front.
Available on ebay HERE
This is a pretty simple ensemble I put together from 7.5 yards of green cotton and one yard of silk dupioni I had left over from another project. The notable pattern usage is in the over skirt. I mixed parts from two different patterns.

I used the front apron from TV364, but used the back "sashes" from TV303. I also shortened the sashes by about 12" from what is on the pattern. The back sashes cover up the ribbon that is used to pull the apron sides up and keep them in place (see photo somewhere below).

Friday, 25 September 2015

Reproducing the Kyoto Institute's 1790 Pink Taffeta Gathered Jacket

Patterns used: Norah Waugh's "1775 Robe a l'Anglaise", diagram XXII from The Cut of Women's Clothes (altered) 
   Also the sleeves from diagram XXVI of the same book.
Fabrics: 100% Silk Satin, mulberry color. The skirt is very lightweight striped weave, polyester (it's amazing how real some polyesters can look).
Chest: 38-42" (gathered top allows for quite a wide adjustment
Waist: 34-36 (Due to nature of belt tabs, the adjustment range on the waist is not as high as the chest)
Bicep Circumference: 14"
Write Circumference, buttoned: 8"
Hem: 40"
Available on etsy HERE
Available on ebay HERE

Friday, 18 September 2015

1950s Pleated Skirt - Embroidered Tulle over Cotton

Pattern: None. Drafted as a simple panel pleated to a waistband.
Fabrics: Pink tulle netting, embroidered throughout with rose ribbons, soutache, and metallic silver. Plain pink cotton for lining.
Waist: 28"
Hem length: 31"
Hem circumference: 120"
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on ebay HERE

**I'm sorry about the width of the web page. I wanted to show these images at the their full size and resolution, which will probably force your web browser to go wide.

Wednesday, 16 September 2015

1890s Belle Epoque Suit - Gothic/Fantasy Styling

Patterns: Truly Victorian #496 "1896 Ripple Bodice"
                Butterick #3418 (altered)

Fabrics: Definitely not historically accurate. Polyester/rayon blend. The fabric is a two-tone red metallic and black. This puts it closer to the realm of fantasy or goth Victorian. It makes me think of something pseudo historical, like Dracula or the New Orleans Vampire Ball, LOL.

Sunday, 13 September 2015

1780 Robe a l'Anglaise - Norah Waugh XXII

Pattern: 1775-80 Robe a l'Anglaise, from The Cut of Women's Clothes, by Norah Waugh. Diagram XXII.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. I love this pattern and will definitely be making it up again =)
Fabric: 100% Cotton, drapery weight. Pattern is a dark blue background with a pattern of orchids and small birds in shades of blue, grey, and white.
Alterations: None. I added seam allowances to the pieces (which you have to do for all the Waugh patterns, but otherwise this is made true to the size and specifications in the book. The gown is surprisingly large for an extant piece *see size below

Finished Measurements:
Chest: 39"
Waist: 34"
Hip: Free
Hem: 45" at back, drag length.
Upper arm circumference: 13"

Monday, 7 September 2015

Butterick B4513 - Halloween Dress

Pattern: Butterick #4513, from the "Retro Butterick" reissue collection.
Fabric: Polyester chiffon, velvet flocked with little bats.
Available on ebay HERE

Alterations: General fit alterations recommended, especially to the waist/bust ratio. The pattern seems to assume the wearer will utilize a girdle or other forming underwear, because the waist/bust ratio is rather wide. Bust also rides high.
*I added a matching sash to tie around the waist instead of a belt.

Alterations I will make next time: I don't really like the elastic portion at the center back. It creates gathered puffiness at the back, which doesn't make the nicest silhouette. Next time, I will alter the back to a smooth fit and add a zipper closure to the side seam under the arm.

Sunday, 6 September 2015

1770s Polonaise from The Cut of Women's Clothes - Striped Silk Taffeta

Pattern: Diagram XXI, "1770s Polonaise" from Norah Waugh's The Cut of Women's Clothes. I was unable to locate any images of the extant garment.
Fabrics: 100% Silk Taffeta, striped. 100% silk dupioni for the petticoat.
Alterations: MANY alterations, yes, mostly relating to making the garment suitable for a modern figure. See below for specifics.