Saturday, 31 October 2015

1871 Harper's Bazar Jacket - Black Velvet

Patterns: Sleeveless Jacket from Harper's Bazar, Vol.IV, No. 34, pattern No.IX.
Bodice from Truly Victorian #400 "1871 Day Bodice" & sleeves from Truly Victorian #441 "Garibaldi Blouse"
Skirt from Truly Victorian #202 "1869 Grand Parlor Skirt"
Fabric:  Cotton velvet, black. Polyester taffeta, flocked with black velvet.
Available on etsy HERE
Available on ebay HERE
Alterations: I combined patterns for the bodice, taking the sleeves from a Garibaldi blouse pattern. I also shortened the bodice and added a collar.
Chest: 38"
Waist: 30.5
Hip: <45"
Hem: 40" at front

(1871) Harper's Bazar, Vol. IV, No. 34 - Pattern No. IX, "Velvet Jacket with Basque"

Tuesday, 20 October 2015

Stash Busting! 18th century Caraco Jacket & Petticoat

Pattern: Robe a l'Anglaise pattern from Norah Waugh, used as the base for drafting the jacket.
Fabrics: Stash busting and, unfortunately, not historically accurate in fiber content. The jacket is a linen blend and the petticoat is polyester/rayon taffeta with heavily machine embroidery throughout.
Available on ebay HERE
Available on etsy HERE
Finished Measurements:
Chest: 42"
Waist: 35"
Hip: Free
Hem: 39"
Bicep: 15"

Sunday, 18 October 2015

1870s Polonaise in Ivory Satin - Truly Victorian #410

Pattern: Truly Victorian #410, "1873 Polonaise".
Fabric: Matte Duchess Satin, blush-ivory, 100% Polyester.

Alterations: I extended the hem of the front-side pieces to allow the center fronts to meet all the way down to the hem. The sleeves are NOT from this pattern. I took the sleeves flounces from an 1871 Harper's Bazar blouse pattern, which I have made once before (see HERE)
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE
I have made this polonaise several times over the years, but since this blog is new and I have not yet made any references to it here, I decided to make another one. Now, I came up with this dress is rather a "backward" manner. I had 12 yards a very nice tassel trim that I wanted to use, and then built the rest of the dress around that. Kind of like dressing to match your new shoes instead of buying shoes to match the dress, eh? LOL

Thursday, 15 October 2015

1760 Jacket & Petticoat - Norah Waugh XXX

Pattern: Diagram XXX, "1760 Jacket" from Norah Waugh, The Cut of Women's Clothes
Fabric: 100% Silk, brick red/orange color. 100% linen for the lining. 100% cotton for the vintage lace trims.
Available on ebay HERE
Available on Etsy HERE
Alterations: Size increased from the original using the "shift" method. I graded up each piece (front, side, back, skirt section) by 5/8", resulting a in an overall garment increase of 3.75". Also, I did not exactly copy the trimming in the original
Measurements of original pattern:
Chest: 35"
Waist: 26"
Torso quite short, definitely petite range. 
Measurements of my reproduction:
Chest: 38"
Waist: 30.5
Torso still slightly shorter than average.
Hem: 39" at front.

Early Regency Transition Stays

Pattern: N/A. Self drafting. 
Fabric: 100% Linen

A few years ago I was trying to whip up stays that would be suitable to a late 1790s silhouette, that very specific period when it wasn't 18th century anymore, but it still wasn't quite Regency. What I really wanted was the Transition Stays pattern from Past Patterns, but I was broke at the time, lol.

Available on ebay HERE
So, I whipped up a sort of short stay with no gussets or cups to speak of, so you still get that pressed shelf look of the 18th century without the breast definition of the regency. I finished making them, and never wore them anywhere! So much is the life of someone who lives in rural Florida and doesn't get the travel much for events (and "much" is being generous. Try never.)

As you can see, they are essentially a loosely flat bodice with full boning in the front. The front portion are "tilted forward" as with 18th century stays, so that they create a shelf rather than a just a flat press.

Wednesday, 7 October 2015

Making 18th Century Shank Buttons - Metal Ring Method

I  saw an extant dress in a traveling exhibit in Tampa, and one of the 1790s gowns featured fabric covered shank buttons with metal ring backs/shanks. Of course, I was unable to examine the buttons too closely, but I think I have devised a great way to recreate them with modern stuff. Plus, this is a much better alternative for people who dislike the thickness that comes with "fabric mound" shanks comprised of all the cinched up fabric.

*regular flat, sew-through, buttons.
*small metal rings. I used jump rings that are sold in the jewelry craft section.

Step One: Sewing the a metal ring to the back of the button. If using jump rings, be sure not to stitch right over the split in the metal, as the ring might come off.

1790s Robe a l'Anglaise - Waugh Diagram XXVI

Pattern: 1790s Robe a l'Anglaise, diagram XXVI from The Cut of Women's Clothes, by Norah Waugh.
Fabrics: 100% Silk, Dupioni, in antique gold color. **Dupioni weave silk did not exist in the 18th century, but I was in love with the color so I don't really care** ;) lol
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE
Alterations: MASSIVE. This pattern in original form is very oddly shaped, especially for modern figures. The original waist/chest difference was almost 14 inches, and the torso is quite long. My alterations for size required me to make alterations to how the pleating on the torso sides was to lay (more on that later).

Friday, 2 October 2015

Butterick 4792 - Retro 50s Dress Done in Halloween Bats!

Pattern: Butterick 4792, Retro Butterick '57
Fabric: 100% Cotton print. Realistic bats on orange, fiery background. 100% cotton velvet on belt.

Alterations: The original pattern calls for a size zipper. I do not like zippers, so I added a placket to the center back and made a closure with buttons. I also did not make the belt in the pattern, but merely drafted my own.
Available on Etsy HERE
Available on Ebay HERE
Chest: 45" max
Waist:  36"
Hip: Free
Hem: 29" from waist.